Brévent : Mic est Maousse

Brévent : Mic est Maousse

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: medium

Rating

AD  
4c > 4cA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2300 m / 2525 m

height_diff_up: 225 m

orientations

E W S N

route_history

Bolted by Manu Méot and friends.

description

The route climbs three outcrops on the NE ridge that leads to the single pitch climbing area at the gap below the Brévent. It finishes at the little outcrop opposite this climbing area, sharing the top belay with Crakoukass. The first 3 pitches face NE the last 2, S.

Approach, 15mins
From the Brévent, take the broad path, (ski piste in winter), eastwards towards the gap/climbing area. Just before this there is a large cairn with a signpost. Take the path which descends to the left (N) towards the Brévent Col and follow it until it trends back rightwards (W) into a scree filled hollow . The route takes the rocky ridge leading back towards the Brévent. It starts at at a slab with a pole with a white top and an old sling through the first bolt. There is a large, obvious boulder at the foot of the S side (left) of the ridge, at about mid height.
Route 1h30 to 2hrs
First Buttress

L1 4b 20m Slab then traverse left to the crest of the ridge.
L2 4a 20m Follow the ridge then a short chimney.
L3 4c 20m Bypass a little wall on the left.
L4-5 2 Move together on the ridge
Descend to the left (S) on scree to the lowest point of the second buttress, passing a line of bolts, the 3c option

Second Buttress, the first bolt is difficult to spot.

L6 4c 20m Go up the broad ridge, first on the right, (crack) then on the left.
It is easy to walk off either to the right or left. However, traditionally, one makes a 17m abseil from an old metal ring on the ridge to the right
From the foot of the second buttress then go up the scree to the W to a little col half way up the third buttress.

Third Buttress, starts a couple of metres beyond the col

L7 4b 35m Slab climbing

Descent 10mins, (back to the top station)
Climb down easily to the gap/climbing area then follow the path either up to the top station or down to Planpraz.

remarks

A nice climb on beautiful rock (gneiss). Great views.
A short route with about 150m of climbing, which can be done for example after La Somone.
Escape possible after each buttress.
There are some other lines on the second buttress. One to the right (3C) of the described route and one to the left (6c) of the abseil point.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

50m rope, 8 quickdraws, slings

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