Dorénaz : Tichodrome

Dorénaz : Tichodrome

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 41 - Col du Pillon
  • Swisstopo - 272 - St-Maurice
  • Swisstopo - 1305 - Dent de Morcles

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

TD-  
6b > 5cA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation_max: 650 m

height_diff_difficulties: 200 m

difficulties_height: 450 m

orientations

E W S N

description

About 1km out of Dorenaz on the back road to Martigny, (E of the Rhone). Park next to a nature sign in its own little shelter and at the start of a signposted footpath after passing the two roadside crags of "Dalles du Vaudois", (excellent one pitch crack climb 5c), and "Graviere", (lots of quarry debris). The obvious S facing crag that rises up the hillside.

Approach 20 minutes

Do not take the signposted path but follow instead the path on the left which zig-zags steeply uphill before traversing left to the foot of the climbs between two trees.
The name is written on the rock at the start of the route.

Route

L1 5c+ 45m A steep wall of good climbing to a good ledge. Awkward to find the best (easiest) line.
L2 5c 40m Crack, then a small overhang with good holds. Up then traverse rightwards to a bolt belay.
L3 5c Continue the traverse rightwards, then straight up before moving back left to the belay.
L4 5c
L5 6b (5c+ with 3 aid points) A short steep section with sparse holds. Good protection.

Descent

Descent on foot is recommended, but it is possible to abseil down the route.

remarks

  • The route is described as the easiest in the topo des frères Rémy, and is rated with a star as one of the best routes.
  • The route is a bit convoluted, taking the easiest line up a steep area of rock. It’s neighbour, "Agier", to the right is more direct.
  • A good introduction to the Gneiss in this area.
  • It is often windy in this part of the Rhone valley.
  • Autoroute noise.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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