Pollux : SE Ridge

Pollux : SE Ridge

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 47 - Monte Rosa
  • Swisstopo - 284 - Mischabel
  • Swisstopo - 1348 - Zermatt
  • Escursionista - ESC07 - Valtournenche - Monte Cervino
  • Escursionista - ESC08 - Monte Rosa - Alte valli d'Ayas e del Lys

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: edge

quality: medium

Rating

PD     P3 

heights

elevation_max: 4092 m

height_diff_up: 700 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 3848 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

1/ From the petit Cervin station (Klein Matterhorn - environ 3820m),go to the saddle at 3796m and traverse the Breithorn plateau (env. 3800m), curving around to the ENE, to the foot of the S faceof the W peak of the Breithorn. Cross to the E the "Grande Ghiacciaio di Verra" and pass below the Central and East summits of the Breithorn. Contour the glacier basin, passing below the Roccia Nera. Cross a spur and pass below the Rossi Volante bivouac. Pass beneath the Schwarztor and go around the foot of the SW ridge to traverse under the S face of Pollux and so to the Zwillingsjoch (3845m)

2/ From the Guide de Ayas hut, Go NE up the easy angled slope to the col di Verra / Zwillingsjoch (3848m), between Castor et Pollux. Th SE ridge starts at this col.

Route SE Arête

From the col, Get to the lowest point of the SE ridge. Follow its crest (vague path) on broken rocks to a pinnacle. Turn this on the left, (or right) to regain the crest on better rock. Some slab climbing (III) just before you reach snow again. Bypass a rock barrier by snow on the right and then follow the easy snow ridge to the summit.

Descent

By the same route
Variant: It is possible to do a traverse by descending the SW ridge.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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