Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Manhattan-Kaboul

Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Manhattan-Kaboul

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D+  
6a > 5cA0

    I  X2    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2680 m

height_diff_up: 300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 210 m

difficulties_height: 2470 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 90 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach 20mins

The buttresses are easily seen from the top station of the Index chairlift. Follow the good track to the NNE, (direction top of the Floria ski-tow,) until a faint path leads across boulders and up the scree to the cliff. Traverse leftwards to a slabby plinth of compact rock, with quite a few bolted lines on it.

Route

Start up the slabby plinth following the « Fixe » bolts.

L1 5b
Go up a bit higher to a belay at foot of the next pitch
L2 5c
L3 6a A little overhang with good holds and well protected. Belay shared with Madagasikara.
L4 5c Start as for Madagasikara then to the left. Belay again shared with Madagasikara.
L5 5a To the right up a little wall sometimes damp. Belay to the left at the foot of the second level.
L6 4c
L7 5a
Above is the third level of the Grande Floria. To get to the foot of the Petite Floria and "Kaboul" climb down a little gully to the left, (cairn) and cross the scree slope. You can also reach this scree slope from going leftwards from the top of pitch 5. Do not go up the first gully but keep traversing well to the left until a plinth of reddish rock at the start of a gully leading down from the Col de la Floria. Start up these rocks, grade 2, no in-situ protection, to a ring bolt.
L8 5c
L9 3b 60m rope or moving together. Traverse to the right along an easy ledge under a white overhanging section and overcome it by a short chimney to reach the belay.
(N.B.From here do not follow the bolted line directly above the belay which is "Pensée Afghane" at 6c/6b+oblig.) Instead follow the bolts a bit further to the right.
L10 6a Sustained but well protected
L11 6a Start by bridging (fun) then more easily to the right.
L12 5a No bolts but short, to reach the easier angled summital rocks

Continue easily up the ridge to the East top.

Descent

From the east summit of the Petite Floria :
Either by the gully of the normal route or via the fore summit by climbing down an easy, broken gully and traversing to the left to regain the belay at the top of pitch 4. Then make an abseil to the belay at the top of pitch 2 and climb down pitch 2 to join the normal route.

From the top of the first or second level of the Grand Floria :
Descend leftwards onto the screes and then a faint path back to the start of the route.

remarks

It is possible to continue up the upper pitches of Fraise des Boâtchs after the finish of the "Manhattan" to reach the summit of the Grande Floria
It is also possible to just climb Kaboul but combining the two gives a great route which is more fun and avoids a long scree approach.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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