Pointe Gaspard : Lady in black

Pointe Gaspard : Lady in black

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way, loop_hut
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

TD-  
6a+ > 6aA0

    I    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 2380 m / 2741 m

height_diff_up: 360 m

height_diff_difficulties: 140 m

difficulties_height: 2600 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 220 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Nice, well equipped route (Raumer bolts), to be recommended. Like most of the routes in the Aig Rouges there are superb views across to Mont Blanc.

Approach 40min

From the top station of the Index chairlift take the path in the direction of the Col des Crochues until the foot of the spur coming down from the Pointe Gaspard. Climb up along the base of the cliff to the start of the route some 50m above “Gaspard 1ere”, and just to the left of the bolts, (different make) on “Post”. (Traversing more directly across the screes is not recommended.)

Route

L1 5b 25m
Walk up to the left.
L2 5c 25m
L3 6a 40m Some traversing.
L4 6a+ 35m
L5 6a 30m

Descent

Either :
Abseil back down the route
Or
Continue to the summit and follow a faint path along, (more or less,) the crest of the East ridge (some downclimbing exposed towards the end) to reach the Col des Crochues. Take the path back to the Index chairlift. (Descending from the col can be awkward due to icy snow early in the season.)

remarks

A good, well bolted route.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

10-12 quickdraws, slings, helmet, 50m rope. Ice axe and crampons useful at the beginning of the season.

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