Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Madagasikara

Aiguille de la Floria - Contrefort SE de gauche : Contreforts de gauche - Madagasikara

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way, loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

D+  
6a > 5bA0

    I  X2    P1  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2680 m

height_diff_up: 300 m

height_diff_difficulties: 210 m

difficulties_height: 2470 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 100 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Pleasant climb, at a homogenous grade. Very well bolted.

299685

Approach 25mins

The buttresses are easily seen from the top station of the Index chairlift. Do not be tempted to make a direct line to the cliff. Take a large track to the NNE until a faint path leads across boulders and up the scree to the cliff. Traverse towards the left hand under all the other routes, (Asia etc.) Madagasikara is the last route to the left, just after having passed a little yellow spur and a couple of metres to the left of a corner marking the left-hand edge of the spur.

Route

L1 5c One move to start then much easier
L2 5b Pass a little grass ledge then climb a steep wall.
L3 5b+ Make a detour to the left and gain a small, undercut corner, good climbing. Belay shared with Manhattan.
L4 6a After a delicate start, overcome a steep wall to gain the belay to the left. (Again shared with Manhattan.)
L5 4c Walk up the gully and climb a short slab. Belay at the back of a large grassy ledge, at the foot of the second level.
L6 4b
L7 5b One move to overcome a little overhang.

Descent

On foot by traversing west to the Index snowfield/scree slope or by abseilling down a specially prepared abseil line to the right, looking down. Three abseils of 45m each. The first starts off down very steep grass and then trends slightly leftwards, (looking down,) to the next abseil point (N.B. The start of the abseils is easily reached by going leftwards, (looking up) at the base of the little slab of pitch 5.) Abseilling down the climb should be avoided due the likely presence of other climbers.

remarks

  • The route is equipped with screw-in bolts and stainless hangers. It is just to the left of Manhattan, which is equipped with "Fixe" glued–in bolts
  • Fantastic view of the Mont Blanc mountains.
  • It is possible to go to the summit by following the upper pitches of Fraise des Boâtchs.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Good shoes if you chose to walk down, (check out the presence/condition of snow slopes before descending.)

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