Mont Blanc du Tacul : Goulotte Bodin Afanasieff

Mont Blanc du Tacul : Goulotte Bodin Afanasieff

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: loop
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: goulotte

quality: medium

Rating

D+   4  M3+    IV    P4 

heights

elevation min/max : 3450 m / 4075 m

height_diff: +1150 m / -1150 m

height_diff_difficulties: 600 m

difficulties_height: 3480 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Superb gully in a great setting.

Approach

2h to 2h30 from the Aiguille du Midi

Go up the normal route (N face,) of the Mont Blanc du Tacul to around 3800 m (+/- 100m depending on the seracs.) Make a long contouring traverse to the W then descend finding the best and least steep line to a little col at 3580m. (Make sure your altimetre is properly regulated!) Beware, menacing seracs. The col is identified by a little cairn. From the col descend the obvious couloir at 40º, (easy if there is snow,) until the bottom, about 120m.

Route

4 to 6h from the bergschrund.

Traverse to the left for several dozen metres to spot a 20m ramp ascending to the right (3c ou M3+) which gives access to the gully.
Climb the long gully for 500m. Three short steps: grade 4 ice and 50/55° on snow.
At the top you reach the ridge on the left which is followed to the shoulder of the Tacul.

Descent

Join the normal route for the Tacul.

remarks

It is also possible to reach the foot of the gully from the Grands Mulets hut.
The route goes behind the rock pinnacle, (Aig. de Saussure), that is clearly visible from the valley, Les Houches.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

7/8 ice screws, some friends up to No.1 Camalot. .
Set of nuts, (especially little ones,) 4 or 5 slings.

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