Aiguille du Châtelet : Voie Idrotechnic

Aiguille du Châtelet : Voie Idrotechnic


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Associated waypoints

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  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur



route_types: loop
durations: 1 day(s)

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

quality: fine


6a > 6aA0

    II    P1 


elevation min/max : 1735 m / 2525 m

height_diff_up: 1000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 280 m

difficulties_height: 1900 m





From the large parking in Val Veni, (Freney), follow the signposted path for the Monzino hut. At about 1900m, after having past a first section of "via ferrata", identify the start at the base of the slabs on the left. If you use the photo from the "Grimpailler" site, (link given below) there will be no problem finding the start. A bit of cord is attached to the first bolt.


L1 5c 35m A small corner, then a slab, belay under a roof.
L2 6a 35m Climb the roof, then a crack, then a delicate traverse left.
L3 4b 50m Easy angled slab.
L4 4b 50m More easy angled slab then go to the right along a wall to find the belay on the left.
L5 5c 30m Slab, gain a crack on the left, then traverse well to the right to pass a large block. Belay on the right, difficult to find.
L6 5c 50m Come back slightly to the left and go up a series of slabs.
L7 5c 50m Traverse to the left on slabs under an overhang. Belay at the exit above the roof.
L8 5b 50m A few moves then a grassy slope, with some bolts in rocks along the way.

Descent :

Make your way to the left, looking down, to rejoin the path leading to the Monzino hut.


The route is not very homogeneous, with two pitches of 4 after the second pitch.
The quality of the bolts is good, but the positions are not always logical.
Make sure you find the belay at the top of P5, it is well to the right and off the line of the route. The bolts on P6 tempt one to continue after the block.
Superb position!

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.


12 quickdraws


Montagnes Magazine #381 - 07/2012
The route together with the approach and the descent are on a photo on the "Grimpailler" site: (


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