Roc Colom (Pic Marfaing) : Aresta Sud
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South Ridge of Roc Colom climb (PD IV 80m, partly equipped), starting from Refugi de Malniu, ascent via Refugi Folch i Girnoa, Portella de Meranged and reching the base od the route. Descent, via reaching first the Puigpedros sumit and descending to Refugi de Malniu.
Description
Approach
Circular loop route. Start at Refugi de Malniu (2.130m) follow direction W, under the south of Puigpedrós, following GR-11 until Refugi Joaquim Folch i Girona (Engorgs)
Then continue direction NE, until the base of Roc Colom, start of the route. In winter conditions crampons and piolet are needed in the ascent.
Ascent
Rating: PD IV
Length: 80m
Traditional climb following cracks and big granite blocks. Grade III/IV, divided in 3 lengths. Partially bolted routes. Possible to climb with in-situ bolts, but additional cams and nuts can be handy in all pitches. Anchors partially bolted, good for rappel (attention with windy conditions).
L1: III+ and II, 1 parabolt 20 meters.
Start on the col, follow the crack on the left, the first and only bolt of the pitch is clearly visible (there is another bolt more to the left, but not needed). Then follow the crack (might be useful to place some protection), reach the grassy ledge, where the anchor is (one piton and one parabolt).
L2: III+, II and IV, 5 parabolts 30 meters
Start right to the anchor to go over the block, continue left of the tree following the bolts (easy terrain grassy ledges). After that two options.
Option A: follow the bolts in diagonal to the left and then exit to an easy slab to reach the anchor at the right.
Option B: continue vertically and towards the blocks at the right, no in-situ protection so useful to bring some cams and nuts. Start right to the dihedral, and continue right to the slightly overhang blocks, to reach some cracks and go up to o reach the anchor (one piton and one parabolt).
L3: III+ and III, no protections, 30 meters
Start to the left slightly and follow vertically the rocky ledges (difficult to place any protection, few slings around rocks are possible). Follow the more logical path to reach the anchor (old slings and one parabolt). Continue very easy climb (no rope needed) to reach the summit few meters away.
For the rappel line, follow the same anchors (to reach from R2 to R1 30 meters are just exactly enough).
Descent
Continue the ridge till Puigpedros (2.915m) then descend direction S until Refugi de Malniu.
Total
Height difference: 950m
Matériel
Material
60m rope, partly bolted route recently, (optional: cams and nuts), bolted rappels.
Only in winter, crampons and piolet needed for the access.
Commentaires
Hello @OpenGymLeuven
Thank you for this route creation !
But, regarding the images you linked, do you have the autorisation of the authors to publish it here ?
If not, we have to delete it from the site and put the direct external link to it.
https://www.camptocamp.org/images/1603715/en/
https://www.camptocamp.org/images/1603716/en/
I am also a bit surprised by the cotation PD if there is IV grade. At lest AD- ?
Thank you for your feedback and looking forward to your next contributions !
@Modo_Topo_FR_contact
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Imprimé le 13 août 2025 21:52
