Armancette : Ligne principale

Armancette : Ligne principale

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 45 - Haute-Savoie
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)

quality: medium

Rating

TD-   4    II    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 1253 m / 2150 m

height_diff_difficulties: 120 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Approach

From the parking at la Frasse (Les Contamines-Montjoie) go up the forest track towards the Armancette lake. Before arriving at the lake, go SE up the true right bank of the Armancette cwm. The icefalls can be seen on the left. The "Ligne principale", the left most line, becomes more obvious as you climb upwards.

Route

P1: 2 steps at 3, then a snow slope to reach the foot of the main wall, (ice screw belay.)
P2: 50m, 4/4+ (depending upon the line taken), a vertical start for 8m then 80°, (ice screw belay.)
P3: 30m, 75° on the right, steeper on the left, to reach a broad ledge. Belay with 2 bolts on the right, (also 2 bolts on the left.)
P4: 15m, 3/3+, Belay with 2 pegs on the right.

Descent

From the top of pitch 4, it is best to abseil from the right hand belay, new and in the line of the gully. With an intermediary belay on an Abalokov, you can reach the foot of the main wall. There is a peg belay at the side of the rock band for the final abseil.

remarks

The icefall is underneath the Armancette glacier, do not climb if there is a risk of avalanche.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Skis for the approach/return
Abalakov threading hook

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