Pointe Gaspard : Gaspard 1er

Pointe Gaspard : Gaspard 1er

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1344 - Col de Balme
  • IGN - 3530ET - Samoëns/Haut-Giffre
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way, loop_hut
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: gneiss

climbing_outdoor_type: multi

configuration: face

quality: fine

Rating

D  
5c > 5bA0

    I    P1+  E2 

heights

elevation min/max : 2385 m / 2741 m

height_diff: +356 m / -356 m

height_diff_difficulties: 160 m

difficulties_height: 2580 m

gear

glacier_gear: crampons_spring

Access

lift_access : yes

height_diff_access: 200 m

orientations

E W S N

description

Nice, well equipped route (Petzl bolts), to be recommended. Like most of the routes in the Aig Rouges there are superb views across to Mont Blanc.

Approach 40min

From the top station of the Index chairlift take the path, past the the top of the Floria ski tow, in the direction of the Col des Crochues until the foot of the spur coming down from the Pointe Gaspard. Climb up to the left along the base of the cliff to the start of the route, just to the left of a little gully. (Traversing more directly across the screes is not recommended.)

Itinéraire de la voie Gaspard 1er
Itinéraire de la voie Gaspard 1er

Route

L1 4b Climb a small pillar.
L2 4c Climb a steep wall then continue upwards.
L3 5b Superb pitch of slabs and cracks.
L4 2 Along the ridge.
L5 5b Sculptured slab.
L6 5c>5bA0 Climb a little pillar (4c) then overcome a steeper section using a detached flake (5c>5bA0, 3 bolts very close together).
L7 4c A crack then a little spur. Keep to the spur as the rock around it is very friable due to a recent rockslide. Belay on a single bolt and a boulder.

From the top of the climb, gain the pointed, summit rocks by moving together, (short roping). Grade 2, beware of loose rock.

Escape

From the top of pitch 3 to gain the descent path from the Col des Crochues.

Descent

Follow a faint path along, mostly on the crest of the East ridge, (some down climbing, exposed towards the end), to reach the Col des Crochues. Take the path back to the Index chairlift. (The start of the descent from the col can be awkward due to ice/snow early in the season.

remarks

The belays are on bolts linked by rope slings.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

10-12 quickdraws, slings, helmet, 50m rope. Ice axe and crampons useful at the beginning of the season.

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