Aiguille du Midi : Tournier Spur

Aiguille du Midi : Tournier Spur

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: pillar

quality: great

Rating

D-   3  M4    III    P3 

heights

elevation min/max : 2500 m / 3750 m

height_diff_up: 1250 m

height_diff_difficulties: 1000 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

1st winter ascent January 1973 by Jean Afanassieff, solo, with a bivouac 2/3rds up the spur.

description

Approach

From the Plan de l'Aiguille telecabin station, follow the path leading to the Pélerins glacier to reach the foot of the face. It is also possible to follow the track leading to "FIl du Plomb" and then traverse rapidly under the seracs to the foot of the route.

Route

Climb up the gullies to reach the foot of a large rock step at its lower left corner.
Here find an abseil point to descend obliquely to the left 50m, (1 or 2 abseils) down the gully on the left. (Possible to down climb in good snow conditions.) Go up along by the seracs then diagonally up a 50/60° slope for 200m.
The state of the glacier in 2012 meant this section was very exposed to seracs out of sight above. Anything falling from them would come straight down the line of the gully.
From here:
- Go onto the upper rock buttress (4c then 5c). From the belay keep going left to find some pitons which indicate the route. Very good climbing, requiring placing protection..
- Go up the slopes of mixed leading to the ridge. There remains several non-negligible sections of mixed before reaching the Midi-Plan Ridge.

remarks

Take care that the snow conditions are stable for the gully and the exit.

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

Equipment for mixed climbing, friends, wires.

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated books

Associated xreports

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