Aiguille de l'Amône : NE face

Aiguille de l'Amône : NE face

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 282 - Martigny
  • Swisstopo - 1345 - Orsières
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
configuration: face

quality: medium

Rating

D-   1    IV    P4 
5.2 / E4
TD / S5

heights

elevation min/max : 1600 m / 3586 m

height_diff: +2000 m / -2000 m

height_diff_difficulties: 400 m

difficulties_height: 3200 m

slope: S5 for the start then 45°-50° for 400m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

description

Wonderful face, clearly visible from the Grand Lui; its profile being particularly stunning when viewed from La Fouly. The route should be done early in the season, if it is to be done on foot, (as opposed to on skis), as the crevasses and bergschrunds rapidly become a problem.

191736

Approach

From La Fouly go up the path towards the cabane de l'A Neuve. At about 2200m altitude go westwards to get onto the A Neuve glacier and go to the foot of the spur at 2261m coming down from the col d'Argentière.

Route

Make a rising traverse to the SW to gain the foot of the NE face. Climb the lower part then traverse diagonally leftwards before going straight up to reach the summit.

Descent (on foot to the Argentiere Glacier)

Follow the ridge to the Amone gap, often snow, sometimes mixed. From the gap take the SW gully, (some guidebooks describe a secondary gully which leads to the SW gully, this is not recommended as the rock is very poor.) Climb down the gully, with the possibility to make some abseils. There are some rings in place but if you foresee abseilling make sure you bring extra slings etc.

remarks

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

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