Aiguille du Midi : Burnier Vogler

Aiguille du Midi : Burnier Vogler

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Associated waypoints

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Map

  • Swisstopo - 46 - Val de Bagnes
  • Swisstopo - 292 - Courmayeur
  • IGN - 3531ET - St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • IGN - 3630OT - Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
  • Escursionista - ESC01 - Monte Bianco, Courmayeur

Licence

General

route_types: return_same_way
activities:
durations: 1 day(s)
rock_types: granit
configuration: goulotte

quality: medium

Rating

D+   4  M4    III    P1 

heights

elevation min/max : 3350 m / 3842 m

height_diff_up: 500 m

height_diff_difficulties: 250 m

difficulties_height: 2600 m

gear

glacier_gear: glacier_safety_gear

orientations

E W S N

route_history

François Burnier and Romain Vogler, 11 May 1980

description

Approach

From the Aiguille du Midi, walk round to the beginning of the Cosmiques ridge and go up the start of the ridge. Make 6 abseils, (equipped,) down the NW face. The 1st abseil is from 2 bolts in a little pinnacle to the left of a snowy saddle, before the first summit of the ridge.
It is also possible to get to the foot of the route by abseilling from the bridge at the Aig du Midi station.
The bolt hangers from the starting belay have been removed. There are still 3 older bolts and a sling with a maillon just above to the left.

Route

P1 : 60 to 70°, 60m (bolt belay on the right)
P2 : 5m at 80° then 60°, 50m (belay on the left, 3 pegs)
P3 : Diagonally to the right, 65°, 60m
P4 : Snow, belay on the right, two bolts
P5 : Snow, belay on 2 bolts in a rock in the middle of the gully. Easier exit possible to the left.
P6 : To the right, mixed M4, 60m. Belay to the left on the ridge, 2 pegs. The first abseil point is on the right.

Descent

Either follow the Cosmiques Ridge to the Aiguille du Midi or go back down the ridge to the Abri Simond.

remarks

60m abseils

Sensitive areas
There are sensitive areas on this route. Please refer to the map.

gear

The 2006 "Snow, Ice and Mixed" guidebook is wrong. There are 6 abseils and 6 pitches, (not 4).

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