Spaghetti Tour 10x4000
19 - {{ '2017-08-23' | amDateFormat:"Do MMMM YYYY" }}

Spaghetti Tour 10x4000
19 - {{ '2017-08-23' | amDateFormat:"Do MMMM YYYY" }}

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Licence

General

activities

quality: fine

Rating

AD     III 

snow

avalanche_signs: no

participants

participant_count: 3

Winki, Rustem, Martin

route_description

A 5-day Zermatt-to-Zermatt Spaghetti-Tour with 10 4000 summits.

Day 0: Cable car to Trockener Steg and short walk to the Gandegg hut. We almost missed the last cable car. Although the web page says the cable car runs until 16:30, around 16:00 is really the last chance to get to Trockener Steg.

Day 1: Take the first cable car to Klein Matterhorn (the staff will tell you the first cable car is at 7:00 but there are at least two runs before that for staff and skiers, we managed to get on a ride around 6:45). From Klein Matterhorn to Pollux (summit I) and ascend via the normal route. Perfect trace from the cable car that we walked without even putting on crampons. Quite busy with several (mostly guided) groups. Some waiting on the chains but then had the summit for ourselves. Nobody except us descended the SE ridge, which was good because there is a bit of loose rock. But overall this is a perfect way to avoid the crowds and link it with Castor. From the Zwillingsjoch we then ascended Castor (II) via the normal route and traversed to the Sella Hut.

Day 2: Due to strong winds we did not attempt the Lyskamm traverse but instead went the "easy" way via Naso del Lyskamm. Arriving at the base of the Naso, we saw three groups climbing up via what we learned only later was the normal route. Conditions were icy and considering the wind we decided to traverse the base of the Naso towards Passo del Naso. Conditions were icy in several places and due to the length of this traverse in the end we wished we had simply ascended via the normal route. Arriving at Passo del Naso we then ascended to the summit of Naso del Lyskamm (III) and descended via the direct route which was in good conditions with quite a bit of fresh snow but a clear trace from at least one group. We saw several other groups after us that descended via the rock section. Since it was still early we ascended Pyramide Vincent (IV) and then down to the Gnifetti hut.

Day 3: Today was the 4000er collection day. We followed the more than obvious traces from Gnifetti to Balmehorn (V), Schwarzhorn (VI), Ludwighshöhe (VII), Parrotspitze (VIII) and finally arriving at the Margherita hut on the Signalkuppe (IX).

Day 4: On our last day we ascended Zumsteinspitze (X) and then descended the long (but overall quick) way on the Grenzgletscher down to the Monte Rosa hut and Rotenboden for teh train back to Zermatt.

Note: The fixed ropes to descend from Dufourspitze to the Silbersattel have been damaged in August 2016. Some people claimed that one can rappel in the couloir close to the Grenzgipfel with a 2x50m rope. Since we didn't do the Dufourspitze in the end we didn't verify this information.

weather and conditions


We had mostly sunny weather but strong winds with gusts up to 70 km/h.


Apart from the wind, conditions were very good. All itineraries had very clear traces, temperatures were low and the glaciers were solid well past noon. The only icy conditions were encountered were on the traverse to the Passo del Naso.

timing

Day 1:
Klein Matterhorn: 07:30
Base of Pollux: 08:45
Summit Pollux: 10:00
Zwillingsjoch: 11:15
Summit Castor: 12:45
Sella Hut: 14:30

Day 2:
Sella Hut: 06:15
Naso del Lyskamm: 09:15
Pyramide Vincent: 11:15
Gnifetti Hut: 12:45

Day 3:
Gnifetti Hut: 06:45
Margherita Hut: 13:45

Day 4:
Margherita Hut: 06:15
Zumtsteinspitze: 07:10
Monte Rosa Hut: 10:00
+2h15 back to Rotenboden

hut_comment

Very pleasant experience in all huts. Only complaint we have is that we didn't get served Spaghetti even once!

personal comments

Very nice tour that allows one to "collect" some 4000 peaks that one would otherwise never visit. Although climbing wise it is not very challenging, having 4 consecutive days of 7+ hours does become tiring. But one gets reward by absolutely spectacular scenery along the entire way. The only negative side were the strong winds, which apart from stealing a few summits from us, took with them one down jacket (!) and we had to rescue one hiking pole from a crevasse.

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