Aiguille de Praz Torrent: Parat-Seigneur
{{ '2015-11-01' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

Aiguille de Praz Torrent: Parat-Seigneur
{{ '2015-11-01' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

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Licence

General

activities

frequentation: quiet

condition_rating: excellent

quality: medium

Rating

TD-     II 

heights

elevation_max: 2573 m

elevation_access: 1400 m

height_diff_up: 1173 m

participants

Quirijn van Olden, Nico

route_description

We followed the route up as per the description. Then we traversed over the summit and stayed on the ridge during the descent, as there was snow just below the ridge. Nico flew down by parapente from the base of the climb. The author descended on foot (1 hr).

weather and conditions


Excellent


Lots of (relatively old) pitons in the route. Looks like most of them are dating from the original opening of the route. A Camelot 4 is in place in the crack at the start of P8, so if you don't have friend 4, there is at least something... a bit higher there is even a wood-wedge. Most of the belays are re-inforced with a bolt: typically one or two old pegs and a new bolt next to it. Great natural pro placement opportunities (take camelots 0.3 - 1 / friends 0.5 - 2 and -if you have one - Camelot 3 / Friend 4).

timing

8h45 departure from the car. 10h45 start of climbing. 14h20 at top of P8. 16h20 back at the base of climb. back at car 17h50.

access_comment

Best is to park the car 400m after col des Montets, on de Vallorcine side. There is a small park spot for 2, maximum 3 cars on the right hand side of the road, after crossing a small bridge. A small path is starting immediately across the road and joins with the main trail coming up from Le Buet after about 20 min. Alternative is to park near Hotel du Buet.

personal comments

A little gem of a climb! In a secluded spot far from the cable cars and hustle and bustle of Chamonix. The only encounter we had was with a mountain goat (see pictures)! The route is sunny until around 2pm. The rock is amazing: good, positive holds, extremely varied moves (cracks, chimneys, slabs, overhangs, corners...). Pitches are relatively short (typically around 20m), except the first and the last one. Each pitch has typically one or two harder moves, and whilst the route is quite homogenuous at 5b/c, with one 6a pitch, the climbing is never very sustained or extreme within a given pitch. Pitons (pegs) indicate the route. Avoid following any bolts! These bolts are from more modern routes that either cross or - usually briefly - run parallel to the Parat-Seigneur. A great route to practise placing gear (we exclusively used friends, no nuts). The old pegs and the wooden wedge give the route its charm and a sense of adventure. The views towards the opposite side of the valley (Aig Verte, Drus, etc) are spectacular. The traverse over the summit is a logical and elegant way to complete the route and can be done on approach shoes from the top of P8. The rappel at the end of the traverse is really a full 50m (if you do it in one go as we did). We had a 60m double rope and there was not much left!
Some comments on the grading of the last 3 pitches: the Piola guide seems more correct to us than the grades that were previously on this site: considering the grading of the first 5 pitches, we consider P6 is 5b, P7 5c, and P8 5c. I adapted the C2C description accordingly. And last but not least: a big THANK YOU to Nico for agreeing to my proposal for the tour, for the great company and for the awesome pictures!

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