Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: north ridge from Eccles hut
{{ '2015-08-12' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey: north ridge from Eccles hut
{{ '2015-08-12' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

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Licence

General

activities

frequentation: quiet

condition_rating: average

quality: medium

Rating

AD+  

Access

hut_status: open_non_guarded

snow

glacier_rating: difficult

participants

chris bedford, Liz Bedford

route_description

From Eccles hut to summit of Pic Eccles, rappel to Freney Plateau, across to Col Peuterey and then to the top....

weather and conditions


Excellent


Loose rock to the summit of Pic Eccles, several rappels from col Eccles (one on Abalokov) to get to the Freney plateau. Easy to the Col Peuterey. Surprisingly tricky climbing, trending leftwards, on the rock above the snow slope (first pitch IV?), much harder than the grade II implied in Martin Moran's book. Traversed the left side of Pt Young then the short rocky and snowy ridge to Pt Gussfledt
Rested on the col for a few hours before returning to the bivi hut by the route of ascent - recent snow and east facing aspect meant the climb to col Eccles was steep (Scottish III?) but easier than expected.
Poor re-freeze the next day meant we had to take a devious line on descent from the hut (traversing above the glacier on the left looking down, then one rappel over the rimaye to re-join the glacier.)

timing

Depart 0530, summit 1030 (approx.)

access_comment

Difficult getting to the Eccles hut; ok to the summit of the Blanche

hut_comment

Eccles hut in amazing position...

personal comments

Liz's 50th (final?) major 4000m summit.
Huge thanks to Mark Thomas and Phil Ashby for an unforgettable experience.

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated xreports

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