Normal South Ridge route. Descended via W couloir (not recommended).
weather and conditions
Sunny all day
Excellent conditions. Sound rock, except a bit loose on the approaches final couloir and extremely loose on the descend in the W coiloir. Half a dozen slings, couple of small/medium cams, 6-8 quickdraws. Single 50m rope (double ropes advisable for the descend).
Left hut: 6:45am, approach: 1:00h, climbing 7:00h, descend 2:00h
It is worth noting that the distance to the first tower is surprisingly long. It has been scaled down in the topo with mention of ~200m of 2-3b. Some of it was surprisingly difficult for the grade and could not simul-climb. Took nearly 2h to the first tower. The descend via the W couloir can not be recommended in any situation. Very loose and very dangerous. Good shoes like trekking or alpine shoes help, but you are better of if you just bring extra rope and abseil down the SE face. Double ropes would be recommended also for the West Coiloir.
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