Tour Ronde : Face E and Arete SE
{{ '2015-07-12' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

Tour Ronde : Face E and Arete SE
{{ '2015-07-12' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

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Licence

General

activities

frequentation: crowded

condition_rating: good

quality: medium

Rating

AD     II 

heights

elevation_max: 3792 m

elevation_access: 3365 m

height_diff: +600 m / -2600 m

Access

lift_status: open

hut_status: open_guarded

snow

elevation_up_snow: 3365 m

elevation_down_snow: 3365 m

glacier_rating: easy

avalanche_signs: no

participants

Winki, Rustem, Martin

route_description

Approach

On Saturday took the cable car to the Aiguille du Midi and crossed the Glacier de Geant to the Torino hut in about 3h. On the way we decided to do a detour and climbed the Aiguille de Toule via its south side (does not seem to be described on C2C). A simple rock scrample of 1+1 hour with nice views from the top.

Climb Tour Ronde via Face E (Voie Normale)

Started to climb the east face around 6:15. The snow froze overnight but a lot of rock debris could be seen at the base of the face. We quickly realized why. As soon as the first sun rays hit the face around 6:30 pieces of rock started flying over our heads due to the melting snow/ice. Luckily we got not hit but starting the climb half an hour earlier at this time of the year is definitely strongly recommended. Probably also the reason why we were the only party to take this route up. If it wasn't for that, it is a nice mixed climb with rock, ice and snow. Then followed the more or less obvious path to the summit of Tour Ronde.

Desent via Arete SE

Nice and mostly straighforward arete but with some exposed places, i.e. the last gendarme (in descent direction). We descended back onto the glacier via the snow field.

Retour via the Helbronner cable car

Very impressive cable car ride!

weather and conditions


Blue skies, no winds

timing

05:15 Torino
06:15 Start climbing on the voie normale
07:15 On the arete SE
08:15 Summit of Tour Ronde
09:00 Start return via arete SE
12:30 Back on the glacier
13:20 Torino

personal comments

  • Due to a 2h wait at the Mt Blanc tunnel decided last minute to go up to Aiguille du Midi and walk to the Torino hut
  • Had to leave a stuck friend/camalot behind at the first gendarme of the arte SE. It will now serve as fixed piece of protection, which hopefully will be apreciated by other climbers.

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated xreports

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