weather and conditions
Moderate to strong W wind high up, storm clouds passing over with limited/no rain.
Very limited night frosting up to about 3500m. The glacier is ok, even if some snow bridges start to degrade. The passage through the serac is very simple. The path is almost all in snow, a part a for few meters in stepped ice just before the final slope to the summit.
Primary target of the weekend was the Weissmies N ridge. Given the weather unknowns, we eventually decided to fall-back on the normal route. A posteriori it was probably a good idea: while the ridge was perhaps doable, the strong wind and the storm clouds were not going to make it very enjoyable. Next time, with better conditions.
Concerning the normal route, it is very very frequented: we spent most of the time queuing or sorting out priorities …
The S ridge appears to be recently traced, while the N ridge only has old traces.
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