Aiguilles de Chamonix: Traversée des Aiguilles de Chamonix S-N
{{ '2010-07-26' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

Aiguilles de Chamonix: Traversée des Aiguilles de Chamonix S-N
{{ '2010-07-26' | amDateFormat:"dddd Do MMMM YYYY" }}

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Licence

General

activities

quality: medium

Rating

TD-     IV 

heights

elevation_max: 3673 m

elevation_access: 3795 m

participants

niels van veen

weather and conditions


Good


The approach of the aiguille de plan was very icy

timing

2 days

personal comments

In general:
The route is not very easy to find, after aiguille de Plan pretty continuous in terrain of grade 2 & 3, except the more difficult pitches on the Caiman & Fou.

The route after the summit of the Fou:
From the summit of the Fou make about 4 rappels of max. 30 m, continuously climbing in direction of the Blaitaire inbetween the rappels, unill you reach some ledges that go to the last gendarme before the Blaitaire. Climb this last gendarme. The difficulties should not be more than grade 3 in this part. After descending this last gendarme go via easy terrain in direction of Blaitaire. To reacht the Spencer couloir, go to the col between the Blaitaire main summit and the summit to the Chamonix site. to reach this col you have to climb slightly to the left and climb up around 50m to this col. In summertime the descent of the spencer couloir will be very dangerous due to rockfall. To avoid the Spencercouloir climb from the Blaitaire on the left side of the Spencer couloir down (if you look in direction of Nantillons) each time goining left further away of the couloir (nasty terrain with many lose rocks that should not be more difficult than grade 2/3), until you find 2 rappels of around 45m. After these rappels keep on downclimbing to the left to gain a sort of pillar that you follow to stay in the most safe place for stonefall. The last part of the piller are equipped with some rappels to reach the glacier. Avoid staying unnecessarily under the fall line of the spencercouloir.
From here follow the route to the rognon de Nantillons. Follow the cairns and descent the rognon on the Charmoz site to reach the Nantillons Glacier again. Some passages of grade 3 / 3+ that can be rappeled. After this point you are on easy terrain but thake care for the many seracs and stonefall so be quick here.

Associated routes

Associated articles

Associated xreports

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