weather and conditions
Brief opening in the weather before cold front and new snow arrived tuesday 11th onwards.
Forecast strong winds did not arrive. Clear night, but not very cold. Much better weather than predicted.
Approach slower than anticipated as breaking new trail. Bergschrund passed fast but thin, mixed. A few more parties and little ice would be left.
Good snow in the couloir with thin mixed section at about half height.
Several tricky sections. One immediately prior to block, one getting over the jammed block and thin mixed at the top of the final pitch. Not particularly well frozen. Much spindrift.
Final slopes ok but windslab in parts. Protectable.
No tracks throughout the whole route. Start of route at 730am, summit at 7pm.
Aiguille du midi lift shut until december.
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