Aid climbing progression

1. Placement du point

First find a placement for the anchor in the rock and choose the type of equipment best suited to the placement (cam, piton, hook, bolt...) Remember that some anchors are for progression only (will not hold a fall) and others are also protection anchors (can hold a potential fall).
Concerning piton placement, see our Piton guide.

2. Anchor testing

Once the anchor B is placed, clip the anchor, with a quickdraw for example, to which you have connected the free end of your lanyard. So if anchor B fails, it will be retained by the lanyard. Instead of a quickdraw, you can also hitch a cord or thin sling to the anchor, with a non-locking carabiner attached.
Clip your etrier to the anchor (do not clip to the lanyard carabiner to avoid interfering with the lanyard adjuster).
Test the strength of the anchor, looking away from it while testing.

3. Transfert de poids

Pull the slack end of the lanyard connected to anchor B.

Slacken the lanyard arm connected to point A. To slacken the lanyard arm, unweight it using the etrier.

4. Remontée sur le point

Unclip the lanyard arm from point A, and continue to shorten the arm connected to point B by climbing the etrier.

Clip your rope into point B.
Clipping the anchor should not be done too early, in order to limit the fall distance should the anchor fail.

You are ready to place the next anchor and repeat all of these steps.

Author and source

This Petzl technical documentation is shared on http://www.camptocamp.org in partnership with the Fondation Petzl. Petzl Foundation aims to conduct educational and risk prevention actions related to the practice of vertical activities. This documentation is available under the Creative Commons CC-by-nc-nd licence.

Author: Petzl
Source: petzl.com
Version: V1
Date: 27/01/2016