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Mont Blanc du Tacul: Ice Gully Gabarrou-Albinoni

  • Activities:
    alpine snow, ice, mixed climbing
  • Min / max altitude:
    3842m / 4248m
  • Elevation gain / loss:
    +600m
  • Difficulties lenght:
    500m
  • Configuration:
    gully
  • Main facing:
    E
  • Duration:
    1 days
  • Slope:
    85°
  • Global rating:
    TD-
  • Commitment grade:
    III
  • Ice climbing grade:
    4+
  • Quality of in-place protection:
    not filled in
Summits, passes, lakes and cliffs:
Huts, usual bivis and valley accomodation:
Access points:
Areas:
Mont-Blanc
Haute-Savoie
France
Weather forecasts:
Météo Alpes Météo Chamonix OT Chamonix Météo France
Avalanche bulletin:
Haute-Savoie
Maps:
IGN 3531ET St-Gervais les Bains - Massif du Mont Blanc
IGN 3630OT Chamonix - Massif du Mont Blanc
Swisstopo 292 Courmayeur
Swisstopo 46 Val de Bagnes
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Climbing Mont Blanc du Tacul via Goulotte Gabarrou-Albinoni already proves a certain technical level and requires substantial high mountain experience in this type of route. This ice gully is located between Pilier Martinetti (on the right) and Pilier Cecchinel (on the left). It was climbed for the time first on the night between 4 and 5 July 1974 by Jean Pierre Albinoni and Patrick Gabarrou.

Approch: To that point takes 1h30.
From Aiguille du Midi, descend the ridge completely to the E until the altitude of 3670m. From there, pass the bergschrund and go between the large Rognon and Pointe Lachenal. Skirt the S face of Pointe Lachenal and head towards the base of the ice gully. It is located to the left of Pilier Martinetti (the one that descends the lowest on the E slope of Mont Blanc du Tacul).

1132051184_250860183.jpgView picture informationIce Gully Gabarrou-Albinoni.  General view.

Ice Gully:
Pass the sometimes steep and open bergschrund. Then go up the snow slopes plumb with the ice gullies (300m at 55° with possibility of a steeper section at 70°).
Belays are located on the right bank. Do not take the ice gully first on the right (it is the more difficult Goulotte Modica-Noury), but skirt Pilier Cecchinel for 100m until a widening dominated by a rocky wall, belays on the left (while climbing).
From this belay, continue the ice gully by traversing it to get to the left bank. The latter section is steeper (85°) and may have less ice depending on the season and conditions, belays on the right or left.
Continue then either directly (risk of stone falls), or while pulling to the right then by a corridor to reach the E ridge of Tacul.
From there, continue easily to the summit (4 to 6h).

Descent:
From the summit, head towards the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul and around 4080m, descend completely N then in the direction of the base of the triangle of Tacul by passing successively 2 bergschrunds which can be steep depending on the conditions or the season. From here it is easy to reach Col du Midi then to go back up to Aiguille du Midi  (2h30).
It is also possible to return by rappelling in the gully at the top of the difficulties. Nevertheless, it is a shame not to top out to the summit.

Remarks:

The entire gully faces E, so it gets the sun from when it comes up. You need to take this into consideration when deciding when to start. At the altitude of 4000m, you arrive on the ridge which leads to the NNE facing summit. This route is generally carried out in winter conditions which can pose problems descending the normal Tacul route where there can be wind plates.

There are 200m of HD to reach the foot of the ice gully, 500m for the ice gully itself (the most steep section is at 85° for around ten meters and is in the last third) and 250m to reach the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul. To that, add 250m for the return to Aiguille du Midi, for a total of 1200m.

Even if the majority of the mountaineers do this route with the first tram, it is preferable to start sooner because of its orientation.

Access:
Chamonix -Aiguille du Midi tram as far as the summit. Round trip 34 euro.

Accommodation:
Cosmiques refuge (04.50.54.40 16). Attended from 15 February to 15 October. Half-board for 42 euro. Sleeping at the refuge is a good idea, because this ice gully is very popular with mountaineers for the first tram.

Gear:

Crampons, 2 technical ice axes, 6 to 8 rings, pitons, nuts and friends, slings, snap-links, helmet, 2 50m rappel bits.

External resources:
Ascensions au pays du Mont-Blanc - Jean-Louis Laroche, Florence Lelong

"Neige, glace et mixte" - Publishers Editions Ice Connexion - Itinéraire n° 67d
Guide Vallot "La chaîne du Mont Blanc 1" - Publishers Editions Arthaud - Itinéraire n° 96

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