Mont Blanc du Tacul: Couloir Jager

Mont Blanc du Tacul is easily accessible from Aiguille du Midi tram, which makes it a very popular summit. The E slope of this summit is crossed by several routes including Couloir Jager, which after Couloir Gervasutti is the second corridor to have been climbed on this face. The first climb was made by Pierre Barthélémy and Claude Jager on 12 June 1964.

Couloir Jager shoot is an already long route which proceeds in altitude and can be considered as a training route for a more serious route. You reach it via Aiguille du Midi in around an hour. There is no escape route steps, other than descending the corridor.

Approch

View picture informationFace Est du Mont Blanc du Tacul

From Aiguille du Midi, descend the ridge completely to the E until the altitude of 3670m. From there, pass the bergschrund and go between the large Rognon and Pointe Lachenal. Skirt the S face of Pointe Lachenal and head towards the base of the corridor. Couloir Jager is situated to the right of the more evident Couloir Gervasutti.

Couloir

Pass the bergschrund which is more or less open depending on the season and go up the corridor primarily via its left bank. It steepens the last 100 meters to reach 60°. At the top out of the corridor, you go to the easier cornice. It takes approximately 3 hours to go up this corridor. This time frame can vary depending on the quality of the snow. Once past cornice, go up the snow ridge until the summit of Mont Blanc du Tacul  (1 h).

Descent

From the summit, head towards the shoulder of Mont Blanc du Tacul and around 4080m, descend completely N then in the direction of the base of the triangle of Tacul by passing successively 2 bergschrunds which can be steep depending on the conditions or the season. From here it is easy to reach Col du Midi then to go back up to Aiguille du Midi  (2h30).