Index de la Glière: SE-ridge

  • Activities:
  • Min / max altitude:
    2385m / 2595m
  • Elevation gain / loss:
    +200m
  • Difficulties height:
    100m
  • Configuration:
    crest, ridge
  • Main facing:
    SE
  • Route type:
    loop / walk down to the base of the climb
  • Duration:
    1 day
  • Global rating:
    AD-
  • Commitment grade:
    I
  • Quality of in-place protection:
    P2
  • Aid grade:
    A0
  • Free climb grade > required:
    4a > 3b
Summits, passes, lakes and cliffs:
frenchitaliangerman
english
spanishcatalanbasque

Pleasant climb with an easy approach and therefore very popular
Being south facing and relatively low altitude means it is possible to climb late in the season.

Approach

From the top of the Index chairlift, go up to the SE to reach a large grassy ledge that cuts the East face of the Index (marked as "Index de la Glière" on the IGN map).  Follow the ledge to its end at the level of a detached boulder.  Faint path all the way.

Route

Pass behind this boulder, traverse to the left and climb a polished corner with lots of pegs (4b).
Traverse to the right and climb another corner (III) to gain the crest of the ridge.
More or less follow the crest of the ridge, passing a small wall (III) and keeping to the East side (3b).

Descent

From the summit traverse NE for 15m towards the col de l’Index (II). Abseil (45m) to this col, (or 25m then easy down climbing.)
From the col it is possible to descend a gully directly.  However it is recommended to climb up the face opposite, (III, 25m,) to get on the ridge of the true left bank of the gully where there is a faint path.
Before you get to the scree slopes it is necessary to do a little down climbing.

Remarks:

Very popular!

Gear:

Some quickdraws and a rope for a 50m abseil
Perhaps some friends and nuts

External resources:
Alpinisme - Des premiers pas aux grandes courses - Gérard Decorps, Jean-François Hagenmuller, Christophe Moulin - 1998
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Version #3, date 10 May 2013