- Document type:route
- Activities:
- Main facing:W
- Maximum elevation:3779m
- Minimum elevation:2480m
- Height diff up:1500m
- Duration:1 days
- Toponeige technical grade:3.3
- Toponeige exposition grade:E2
- Labande ski grade:S4
- Labande global grade:AD+
- Compatible with:ski, snowboard, snowshoes
- Slope:40°
- Difficulties lenght:1500m
- Configuration:mountain route or glacier
- Global ratingPD
- Commitment grade:III
- Glacier route:yes
Ascent:
Mont Pourri, despite its name (rotten in French) is the second highest summit of Vanoise at 3779 meters. The peak is no more rotten than elsewhere, and the very beautiful summit warrants a detour.
From Lac Marlou, take a small trail which runs along the south side of the lake. Climb in the direction of Lac des Moutons without going there, then continue to follow the line of the Grand Col chair lift following the ski slope as best as you can, or the road, to arrive at the summit. From the summit of the chair lift, continue in the same direction until Grand Col which appears very close. It takes an hour from Lac Marlou. Grand Col has two refuges with about ten places where it is possible to spend the night with rough conveniences.
From Grand Col, follow a small trail in the moraine until the glacier of Grand Col around 3100 meters. Put on the crampons and tie on at this place. Climb on the glacier and via a circle arc under Aiguille du saint Esprit you reach the foot of Roches pass. Climb the glacier as best as possible, it may be very crevassed at the end of the season to reach Roches pass in an hour from the start of the glacier. From Col de Roches, locate a ledge downclimbing in rock equipped with spits and a cable. An easy downclimb follows, then continue descending by small ledges in the opposite direction to reach the Geay glacier at the foot of the rocks. Traverse slightly climbing to reach the normal Mont Pourri route leaving from Peisey Nancroix.
When you arrive in line with the summit, climb as best as possible on the snow slope which can come very close to 40 degrees. You reach the shoulder on the right of Mont Pourri which makes it possible take a breather before starting the final ridge. Finish by a ridge in snow then in rock to emerge on the summit. It takes 4 to 5 hours of climbing depending on the conditions of the glacier.
Descent:
The descent is done at the same place in the opposite direction. Be very careful on the slope at 40 degrees on Geay glacier as well as under Roches pass because the snow generally starts to transform despite the fact that it faces west.
The 1400 meter HD as well as the sloping sections at 40 degrees mean that this route should not be taken lightly.
A section downclimbing in rock and a course on final ridge mean that this route has to be approached seriously.
Access:
From Bourg Saint Maurice, go to Arc 2000 ski station. At the entry of the station, just after the section under buildings, take a pastoral dirt road on the left which descends. Follow the road until Lac Marlou. Be careful of the multiple crossroads.
Accommodation:
You can sleep at the Grand Col refuge at an altitude of 2935 meters. Beds with bedding are available as well as some covers and kitchen utensils. A burner with gas exists, but the tank is often empty. The refuge with its rough comfort can hold ten people.
Complete equipment for the classic route mountaineering: crampons, harness, ice axe, rope, etc...
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Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 28 September 2008 - Jérôme Folliet -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 1 August 2008 - darkfury -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 11 May 2008 - Maxime TIRVAUDEY -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 10 May 2008 - David Duverney -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 3 May 2008 - Christian Doche -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 18 February 2008 - thibpeaux -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 26 August 2007 - Jacques Orthlieb -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 5 August 2007 - Hugues Duplantier -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 25 July 2007 - Nadia Probst -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 14 July 2007 - Greg Bonnevie -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 2 June 2007 - Matthieu Evrard -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 27 May 2007 - Maria Goran -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 7 May 2007 - Hubert Heissat -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 30 June 2006 - Greg Bonnevie -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 11 June 2006 - lologallo -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 8 June 2006 - Lionel Bouzon -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 25 May 2006 - Eric Mutin -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 28 July 2005 - Nicolas Gougeon -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 19 June 2005 - Sylvain Eymery -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 11 June 2005 - Pierre-Alain Spies -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 5 June 2005 - Max Ramstein -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 22 August 2004 - Eric Larose -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 16 June 2003 - Pierre-Olivier Meurenand -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 30 May 2003 - lologallo -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 4 May 2003 - Sylvie Putot -
Mont Pourri : Versant W par le Col des Roches - depuis les Arcs -
- 6 April 2003 - Jean-Claude Metayer -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 14 August 2002 - Emmanuel Grison -
Mont Pourri : Voie normale du Glacier du Grand Col -
- 7 July 2002 - Pierre-Jean Ribeyron
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