Aiguille de la Lex Blanche: NW face

  • Activities:
    ski/snowboard touring, snowshoing - alpine snow, ice, mixed climbing
  • Min / max altitude:
    2580m / 3697m
  • Elevation gain / loss:
    +1120m
  • Difficulties lenght:
    800m
  • Configuration:
    face
  • Main facing:
    NW
  • Duration:
    1 days
  • Slope:
    50°
  • Global rating:
    AD
  • Commitment grade:
    III
  • Quality of in-place protection:
    not filled in
  • Toponeige technical grade:
    5.2
  • Toponeige exposure grade:
    not filled in
  • Labande descent grade:
    S5
  • Labande global grade:
    TD
  • Compatible with:
    skiing, snowboarding
Summits, passes, lakes and cliffs:
Huts, usual bivis and valley accomodation:
Access points:
french | italian | german | 
english
 | spanish | catalan | basque

Ascent 4 hours of climbing from the Conscrits refuge.

From the Conscrits refuge leave towards the NE traversing slightly uphill. Take foot on Glacier de Tré la Tête around 2800 m and traverse it slightly uphill towards the foot of the NW face of Aiguille de la Lex Blanche. Climb on the left from the spur descending from the summit (western ridge). Pass a throat and reach the summit of a secondary spur on the left in the middle of the face. Climb right to the upper part as far as the summit via a slope which steepens (the last 250 meters at 50°).

Descent

By the same route (without passing the Conscrits refuge again: descend the right bank of the Glacier de Tré la Tête). Start and throat in S5 then S4.

Remarks:
  • This route can be done from Tré la Tête refuge, but the second day is longer.
  • The difficulties are unrelenting on all the face with the most steep sections higher up and in the throat in the middle (slopes to 50°).
External resources:
Sommets du Mont Blanc - Jean-Louis Laroche et Florence Lelong

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