- Min / max altitude:2770m / 3901m
- Elevation gain / loss:+1130m
- Difficulties lenght:450m
- Main facing:SE
- Route type:return trip / abseil down
- Duration:1 day
- Global rating:AD
- Commitment grade:III
- Quality of in-place protection:not filled in
- Toponeige technical grade:5.2
- Toponeige exposure grade:E3
- Labande descent grade:S5
- Labande global grade:TD
- Suitable to snowboarding:yes
From the Argentière hut, climb toward the ‘col du Tour Noir’ and locate the start of the ‘Y’ gully.
Climb towards the base of the gully and over the bergschrund, section at 55° if the snow conditions are right, if not climb in two mixed pitches (belays avaliable). Allow 2h from the hut.
Climb the gully, exiting either by the right-hand branch (often snow) or the left-hand branch (often ice).
Mountaineering : By the normal route of the ‘glacier du Milieu’. Slope between 40 and 45° for 300 m.
Skis : by the route up.
- Right-hand branch: 450m at 45°, the first part is pretty tight.
- The sun reaches the right-hand branch later than the left-hand branch.
- Some ice-screws depending on the prevailing conditions.
- Abseiling is sometimes necessary to cross the bergschrund.
Outings linked to the route on this page:
Outings linked to associated routes (10/22):
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