Pointe du Domino: Petit Viking

Ascent:
First ascent: S.Tavernier, C.Profit and D.Radigue in June 1984.

Day 1 -Access to Argentière refuge: From Grands Montet summit (3233 m) descend on the Glacier des Rognons and descend the Rognons moraine (2754 m) towards the summit by taking the rocky Rognon to the 3000m via the right or left depending on the snow cover. Take the slope towards the right, to the south-east and you reach the glacier at an altitude of 2580m. Go back up glacier on its left bank, which is less crevassed, to an altitude 2650m where you traverse diagonally towards the right bank and the refuge, perched at the foot of the moraine under Aiguille d'Argentière. 1H30 from Grands Montets (be careful of glacial formations). Access in 3h30 from the Lognan intermediate station, difficult in summer, follow the track (summer is the same as winter) until the altitude 2338m, then skirt the glacier via its left bank. Traverse the moraine of the Rognons using the ladders then a trail to reach point 2580m on the level part of the glacier. Access is easier with snow in winter, skirt the moraine of the Rognons via the glacier. Access in 5h00 from Argentière by going up the Pierre à Ric track.

Day 2: From Argentière refuge go to the flat part of the glacier to reach the base of the basin of Argentière. At the end, under Pointe de Domino, the slope becomes significantly steeper, be careful of the stability of the snow, you reach a snowy shoulder under the bergschrund. It takes 2h30 (from the refuge) to 4h00 (from Grands Montets).

Cross the bergschrund as best as you can in the main part of the ice gully resulting from the eastern notch of Domino. Go up the snow slope for 100 to 150m and make belays under the ice gully on the right. A first pitch (70°) brings you under the first narrowing of the ice gully. Cross the gully towards the right (75°, 20m, sometimes mixed, pitons). Two pitches follow ascending slightly to the right, then by a last steeper sequence towards the right (70°, sometimes mixed, piton) top out from the ice gully and take foot in the corridor. Many rope parties stop there, but there is still 100m at 45/50° to reach the notch. Splendid view of the Italian slope and Pré de Bar glacier. From the bergschrund to the notch: 3h30 to 6h00.

Bibliography: - Neige, glace et mixte... By F.Damilano and G.Perroux

Descent:
The descent is entirely bolted. In the summit corridor, be careful of the rope parties which follow you, the ice gully channels the sluffs and possible stone or ice falls. To cross the too open bergschrund, skirt the rocks on the right bank (rappels).

The return on Argentière is greatly shortened by using touring or approach skis, if not a night at the Argentière refuge is necessary on the return route.