- Min / max altitude:2550m / 3901m
- Elevation gain / loss:1350m
- Difficulties lenght:150m
- Main facing:W
- Route type:return trip / abseil down
- Duration:1 day
- Global rating:PD+
- Commitment grade:III
- Quality of in-place protection:P4 (no bolts)
- Toponeige technical grade:5.1
- Toponeige exposure grade:E2
- Labande descent grade:S5
- Labande global grade:TD-
Historic route, replaced by the glacier du Mileu
Follow the itinerary for the ‘col du Chardonnet’ until a plateau at 3050m. Loop around to the right towards the upper Chardonnet glacier.
Climb this glacier to its bergschrund (~3500m, can be awkward) then follow the most obvious gully (“Couloir en X”), that gives access to the NW ridge of Aiguille d'Argentière at around 3650m.
Follow this ridge to a rocky outcrop around 3750m. Go onto the N face and climb a large steep slope (often icy unfortunately) which gives access to the W summit of the Aiguille d'Argentière.
By the same route, (two 50m abseils down the ice slope and another abseil over the bergschrund,) or by the ‘glacier du Milieu’.
- N facing all the way up to the summit ridge, then W.
- 45° for 150m in the relatively narrow gully under the NW ridge then 45° for 100m on the N face.
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