- Min / max altitude:1590m / 3509m
- Elevation gain / loss:1915m
- Main facing:E
- Route type:return trip
- Duration:2 days
- Toponeige technical grade:3.2
- Toponeige exposure grade:E1
- Labande descent grade:S4
- Labande global grade:AD
Ascentto the A Neuve Hut
From La Fouly cross the flat area towards the A Neuve valley.
Go up this broad valley until the glacier of the same name, then go diagonally right across a flat area towards the wide slopes which lead up to the A Neuve hut, 2735m.
From the hut go back to the left to reach a little plateau. Go up the large wall beyond and go leftwards over a snow hump to get to below the summit. Climb the last 100m on foot, (gully and frozen rocks.)
Below the summit take the gully on its true right side of the summit (S4 sur 50m) then traverse to rejoin the glacier.
There are no 2 options:
- Return by the ascent route
- By the A Neuve glacier : climb up to the col to the left of the Grande Lui. Go onto a large slope (~40°) to reach the A Neuve glacier (very crevassed). Chose a line through the seracs (usually best on the true left bank) until it is possible to go down the centre, (less crevasses.) Go back to the left to leave the glacier and rejoin the ascent route towards the hut at about 2300m.
The second descent option is very interesting but beware of crevasses. Do not leave it too late in the day for this option as it get the sun early.
Skiing from the summit is S4 to S5 depending on the snow conditions and changes the overall grade from AD to D-.
Stopping at the col makes the route an hour shorter.
Outings linked to the route on this page (100/121):
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