Camptocamp Ice

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Winter has come. The playground is changing. Temperatures are ripe for the new “ice climbing portal”. The portal was born of heated summer debates but – served cold – we hope you will find it both useful and inspiring for this season of ice!


Information on ice-climbing in the Dauphiné Alps

This article presents ice-climbing in the Dauphiné Alps, which are one of Europe’s main ice-climbing destinations with over a thousand lines between grade 2 and 7.

   

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Cascade Dauphiné
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Le cigare des moulins

Areas

La Graveguide-book

La Grave is THE classic spot for ice-climbing in the Dauphiné, at the foot of the Meije and Rateau summits. There are routes of all difficulties, between grades 3 and 6+, N and S facing, and above 1400m altitude. It is generally possible to climb late into the season and several dry-tooling options are available for those bad weather days.

The classics

La Colère du Ciel 3+ (N facing): the classic climb, which is very rapidely in good condition.
Caturgeas 3+ (S facing): the most courageous will try the complete climb, exiting 500m above the road on the Emparis plateau.
La croupe de la Poufiasse 4+ (N facing): quality correlates with popularity.
Erection a former grade 6 which won’t be downgraded below 5+ anytime soon…

The less classicto be on your own…

Alea jacta est 4+, one of the amazing lines of the Grant Clot
Ectoplasme 5, the last in the series of “asmes”.
Cascade Patrick Berthet 5+ M7, perfect to be on your own.

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Phisalie, Damilano express, un toit pour toit

Le Bourg-d'Oisansguide-book

Lower altitude means that a prolonged cold spell is necessary for good conditions but some ice-falls are often climbable and very worthwhile like those of La Gorge. Visa pour l'Amérique still awaits its second ascent!

Les classiques

Pomme d'Api 3, the classic beginner’s climb.
Happy Birthday 3+, generally rapidely in good condition.
Cascade du Pénail 4+, the classic climb of the Rampe des Commères.
Le mur de Phisalie, Damilano express and un toit pour toit: from WI5 to 6 which is rapidely in condition.
Saint Claude: grade 5+ above the road.

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Merlot l'enchanteur

Vénéonguide-book

The classics

Les Hémos à Godo 4, one of the many mega-classics from the Vallon du Diable.
La Verge du Démon 5+: a highlight of the region.
Vol du Bourdon 4+, the classic on the south facing side of the valley.

L'Alpe d'Huez guide-book

L'Alpe d'Huez is one of the historical ice-climbing areas of the Dauphiné Alps. Facing the SW and at high altitude, the site is ideal for ice-climbing all winter long.

Around Briançon

Ceillacguide-book

High altitude (above 1800m) with plenty of water means that Ceillac, which also faces the NE, has nearly always plenty of ice to choose from. Approaches are minimal with most climbs visible from the road and easy descents on foot. Several climbs are well protected from avalanches and there are climbs of all levels, from WI3 to WI5+ with several hard mixed routes. Ceillac is a safe bet for an ice-climbing holiday!

The classics

The Y de gauche and Y de droite 3+, ideal beginner climbs.
Les Formes du Chaos: one of the region’s best grade 4 climbs, where you will never be alone…
Sombres Héros: THE grade 5 climb of Ceillac.

Freissinièresguide-book

Vallon du Fournelguide-book

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Cascade du Bourg

La Mure

Taillefer   Valjouffrey   Valgaudemar   Col d'Ornon

Champsaurguide-book

Devoluyguide-book

Vercorsguide-book

Belledonneguide-book

Chartreuseguide-book.

Logistics

When to go?Depending on the year, from early December to end of March.

How to get there?

By carComing soon…

By plane

By trainTo Lyon, Grenoble, Gap or Briançon - voyages-sncf.com/

By busComing soon...

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What gear to take? You can look at the help articles on rucksack contents for ice climbing and dry-tooling

Prévisions météo :
Bulletin Neige et Avalanche :
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