, Weissmies : Voie Normale

Wainer, Luca
Weissmies: Normal Route
  4023m  +1000m (250m)    N   3.3/E2 AD/S4 PD- III
Summits, passes, lakes and cliffs:
Weissmies  4023m
Huts, usual bivis and valley accomodation:
Access points:
Hohsaas  3100m -
Kreuzboden  2397m -
  • Activities:
  • Min / max altitude:
    3158m / 4067m
  • Elevation gain / loss:
  • Length:
  • Export: GPX KML JSON
  • Altitude of access point:
    3080m - cleared
  • Conditions:
  • Glacier status:
    covered - travel is easy
  • Track:
  • Crowding:
    lots of people
  • Hut:
    open & staffed
  • Lift or cable-car:
Conditions, equipment and rock quality (approach, route, and around):

Very limited night frosting up to about 3500m. The glacier is ok, even if some snow bridges start to degrade. The passage through the serac is very simple. The path is almost all in snow, a part a for few meters in stepped ice just before the final slope to the summit.

Other conditions on the same day in the same range or massif


Moderate to strong W wind high up, storm clouds passing over with limited/no rain.

Departure time / duration:


Personal comments:

Primary target of the weekend was the Weissmies N ridge. Given the weather unknowns, we eventually decided to fall-back on the normal route. A posteriori it was probably a good idea: while the ridge was perhaps doable, the strong wind and the storm clouds were not going to make it very enjoyable. Next time, with better conditions.

Concerning the normal route, it is very very frequented: we spent most of the time queuing or sorting out priorities ...

The S ridge appears to be recently traced, while the N ridge only has old traces.


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Version #0, date 9 July 2012